Yesterday, Starlight Dances and I took a road trip some 20 odd miles from Natchitoches to Marthaville, LA to visit the Rebel State Historic Site.
This idyllic spot is the home of the Grave of the Unknown Confederate Soldier, that is true. However, of more interest to me was the "Museum of Louisiana Country Music" housed on the same grounds. Here's their self description:
Set in the piney hills of northwestern Louisiana, the Louisiana Country Music Museum contains exhibits that tell the story of how various folk music traditions developed in this region--from early gospel and string band music to the country sounds we enjoy today. The museum, which depicts a stringed musical instrument in its architectural design, also honors the contributions of the many Louisiana natives who have become prominent in the country music and gospel music professions. There is a listening room and a library for those who wish to further explore the music, and a small theater is available for audio-visual shows or live presentations. The museum conducts outreach programs in schools, churches, service organizations and rest homes. Rebel SHS also encourages and invites all groups to visit Rebel for tours and picnics.
Now, let me begin by saying my visit was colored by a couple of factors. First, I had just read recently via my friend honkytonkdolly about the Grand Ole Opry's first star, DeFord Bailey. Second, I am something of a musicologist, as well as being an active musician whose interests lie in American roots music (including bluegrass, country, jazz, mountain music, old-time music, etc.). I live in Louisiana, and play country music. Ergo, the Lousiana Museum of Country Music should in some manner present the full circle from its humble beginnings (and aren't they all humble) to someone VERY much like me.
We'll begin by looking at a sepia-toned photograph of Hubie Leadbetter ("Leadbelly"). The placard informs me that he was "briefly incarcerated in the Lousiana Penitiary System". It does not say that he was a convicted murderer who was pardoned by a Louisiana governor.
I've been to a lot of museums. A lot. In dozens of states. In a few countries. While all museums, particularly those that focus on "historical artifacts", seem to have a kind of "hallowed dust" vibe to them, the MLCM brought this to a new level of "undisturbed". Looking through the five or six total exhibits in the museum, I can easily understand why so few modern performers of country music have any kind of connection with the past, or with their own roots. Who would encourage them to forge such a connection? The record companies? The attorneys? The managers? The radio station owners? Snakes don't like mothballs.
I suppose it was nice to see one of Hank Williams Jr.'s embroidered shirts. Or a Nudie suit worn by Charlie Louvin on the Grand Ole Opry. Or a picture of Doug Kershaw from the fifties looking a lot like Richie Cunningham with a bad haircuit plied with cheap goosegrease and a goofy grin on his face.
But this museum, like a lot of "history" museums, made me feel that its subject matter was dead. Granted, they do have concerts at the park, and things like the state harmonica and fiddle championships. But this place seemed like a tomb to the "good ol' days" with no sense of connection (other than an autographed shirt and hat from Trini Triggs) to the modern world, and to the fact that country music is STILL being played (albeit much differently than either Bill Monroe or the Carter Family probably envisioned).
The park was beautiful. The stage (where they have the championships and Saturday evening jam sessions and concerts) was very nice. It was quite relaxing to tool around under the piney woods looking for sassafras trees, wild violets, Louisiana irises and poison ivy. The company (stardances) was unbeatable and absolutely wonderful. She even found an Easter egg left over from Friday's Easter Egg hunt that the park put on for about 500 children.
But a museum? Dedicated to something I do, something I am? I was expecting a lot more.